Rest Day in Oaxaca

(Andy)

We are in the biggest city in Southern Mexico (pop approx 700,000). This is a town of artists, activists and bright colors. We are staying in a funky hostel near the downtown. The place is comfortable, has free wifi that doesn´t work today, a lovely roof and a variety of colorful travelers from around the world. Ted and I bracket the group in terms of age. I feel like I´m a little old for the place but we were tired when we arrived at 7:30 last night and didn´t feel like looking elsewhere and at this point it doesn´t make any sense to switch places since we are settled in. Ted confided to me that he doesn´t feel like he fits in either. Really though, it´s okay that neither of us join some of the other guests for nighttime revelry so I suppose it isn´t such a bad thing!

We found Ted a new front derailleur and it works like a charm. With a new chain he should be good for another few thousand miles. My new chain works much better too. The 35 peso chain always took a while to switch gears and at times didn´t or just fell off. It worked great as long as I didn´t change gears. I also went two blocks down the street and finally met Noel Chilton, a friend of Bosque School teacher Lisa O´Grady. I first contacted Noel about five years ago when I thought I was going to make a trip to Oaxaca. In conversation we realized that her dad and I very likely have been passing each other while biking to work for years.

It´s hot outside and may rain this afternoon, as it has been during most afternoons and evenings. I just looked outside and saw a very short traditionally dressed woman walking by with a bucket on her head as I type on my computer. What a world.

I feel rested and ready to go from here down towards the Pacific Ocean. It appears that in order to get to Chiapas and be home in 7 or 8 days we are going to have to do some more busing. That´s fine though. I find that when I am in the city I am ready to leave and ride through the countryside. About now would be nice but I should wait until the morning. Oaxaca has a lot of famous sights to see -- big trees, big old ruins, museums but I don´t feel really moved to go there now. Just sitting in the Zocolo watching the world pass by is enough.

Ted: I don't have too much time, as I don't want to pay too much, but Oaxaca is a new city. Different, too. It seems to have a large population of pretty radical graffiti artists, drawing things like a peace sign and an anarchy sign holding hands, and writings telling somebody to step out of power, and to take down the imperialist police chief. Its a different city. Huge central square. Hopping place it is. Gonna go check out the rest of the town. Peace.